Teresita's Panaderia y Bistro on Calle Allende in Álamos, Sonora, México. 2017 photo by Anders Tomlinson.

Here is a sign of good things to come on Calle Allende next to La Puerta Roja.

Teresita’s Panadería y Bistro is a culinary oasis off well-worn tourist trails.
Teresita’s sits on the tip of a peninsula at the confluence of three cobblestone
streets: Galeana, Niños Heroes, and Calle Allende, and barrios with both
modest homes and elegant mansions. It should be noted that nothing
is far from another place in Álamos except the new developments that
march up the surrounding hills. It is a healthy ten to twenty minute walk,
depending on the walker, from the Plaza to Teresita’s.

Entrance to Teresita's Panaderia y Bistro on Calle Allende in Álamos, Sonora, México. 2017 photo by Anders Tomlinson.

Through this portal fine food and calming ambiance awaits.

Teri Arnold is the heart, soul, owner and chef of Teresita Panaderia and Bistro.
She is a business woman who understands bottom lines, a purveyor
of good taste who lives an expressive life and a host who knows how
to throw, or cater, a party. Anders first met Teri in 1992 when he was
separated from his holiday film crew with Mexican car permit issues.
He was fortunate to catch a ride to Álamos in a diesel Mercedes-Benz with
Teri and her then husband Rudy Hale. Laughs flowed freely as the Sonoran
desert passed by and Anders’ many Álamos questions were answered.

Tourist trolley in Álamos, Sonora, Mexico with Teresita's Panderia and Bistro advertising on its back. Photo by Anders Tomlinson, 2017.

Teresita’s believes in advertising in all medias that benefit Álamos.

Teri first visited Álamos in 1979, like many who have come
to consider Álamos part of their souls, as a guest of the gracious Nuzums:
Pember, Elizabeth and Kit Nuzum. Starting with the Casa Puerta
Roja and its five charming guest rooms, beautiful gardens, pool,
libraries, art everywhere and Teri’s gourmet cooking, Teri has
contributed to Álamos for over 30 years. She followed this with the already
legendary Teresita’s Panadería y Bistro which was once an art studio that
adjoined the Inn’s courtyard. La Puerta Roja is scheduled to reopen
its red doors to the public in December 2017.

Teri Arnold's La Puerta Roja bed and breakfst, Álamos, Sonora, ´México, 1992. Photo by Anders Tomlinson.

The Red Doors that open into a tranquil yet vibrant world.

Teresita’s is a hip establishment with a cool owner and “suave” staff.
Teresita’s menu is loaded with modern and classic dishes presented
with style and grace. Great meals are enhanced with quality Teresitas’
including cocktails, handcrafted beers, licores, tequilas and
wines. Teresita’s is a gathering place for coworkers, families, old as
well as new friends and tourists seeking comfort and delectable servings.

Teresita's Panderia y Bistro. Álamos, Sonora, México. 2017. Photo by Anders Tomlinson.

It is easy to become involved with whom and what one is within this environment 

La Puerta Roja’s and Teresita’s Panadería y Bistro’s unique triangular property
was originally owned by the Almada family, followed by Levant Alcorn, who
sold it to the Pulis family from Des Moines, IA.  Jo Yelton was the owner before
it was purchased by Teri in partnership with her mother in 1987.

eresita’s Panaderia y Bistro. Álamos, Sonora México. 2017. Photo by Anders Tomlinson.

Indoor and outdoor living merge as one throughout Álamos.

Álamos, Sonora, México is a town that appreciates its food, be it in humble
or grand home kitchens, street food carts, cozy cafes or first class restaurants.
Teresita’s Panadería y Bistro is a gastronomic treasure: a delicious cornucopia
of flavors, textures, cultures, seasons, colors, nourishments and atmosphere.

Teresita’s Panaderia y Bistro. Álamos, Sonora México. 2017. Photo by Anders Tomlinson.

Large north facing windows broadcast a painter’s soft natural light.

It is easy to become involved with who and what one is with in this
environment that is both formal and casual. Here are Teri Arnold’s
thoughts about Teresita’s:

” Welcome to Teresita Panadería and Bistro in Álamos, Sonora, Mexico …
my little invention that got out of control, with the restlessness that
characterizes a child. We have evolved from selling a few baguettes a day,
a few days a week, to serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. We added a
special wine menu, full cocktail bar and craft beers. We love to make
specialty desserts such as chocolate almond torte, carrot cake with cream
cheese frosting and the classic French tarte tatin…” 

Teresita's Panaderia and Bistro in Álamos, Sonora, México, March 2017. Photo by Anders Tomlinson.

Here is where the culinary magic is created.

“…Our breakfast pastries range from warm almond croissants to
morning glory muffins, scones and sticky buns. Our house-made breads
include, of course, baguettes, but the list has grown to include Italian,
Whole-wheat walnut, Rosemary, Gluten-free and Organic Sonoran White
wheat. We are always experimenting with new ingredients that we can find
locally, or harvest, but we still work to be as local, sustainable
and organic as we can.” – Teri Arnold.

Teresita's Panaderia and Bistro in Álamos, Sonora, México, March 2017. Photo by Anders Tomlinson.

Teresita’s is known for its pastries and cake, have a slice of heaven.

Teresita’s has two special areas and menus for events: Rincon Frida-
full service for 20 people maximum and The Ramada- full service for
20 to 50 people. It is easy to picture an open-air event under a
starry Sonoran sky with scrumptious cuisine, tantalizing aromas and
sophisticated drinks. Behind the animated conversations there is a
bubbling fountain and maybe live guitars with singing.  There is a
special feeling in Álamos, Sonora, México that embraces one within
arms of contentment and good times: it comes on the wind,
a singing bird, children laughing, a friendly nod, romantic music,
caring concern, cordial acceptance and…

Teresita's Panaderia and Bistro in Álamos, Sonora, México, March 2017. Photo by Anders Tomlinson. Kitchen scenes.

Teresita’s celebrated its 6th anniversary in 2017.

During the six years that Teresita’s has been open, how often and
in how many languages has it been said “meet me at Teresita’s?”

Photos of Teri Arold in Álamos, Sonora, México. Photos by Anders Tomlinson and Claudia Karafotos. 1984 to 2017

Teri Arnold in her element: fun with people and Álamos.

The 1984 and 1995 photos were taken by Anders Tomlinson at La Puerta Roja.
The 2017 photo was taken by Claudia Karafotos at her New Year’s party
in Álamos. Partying with Teri are Philip Karafotas and Ray Auckerman.
Teri has know hardship: she has survived two airplane crashes including
one deep in the Sierra Madre Tarahuamara country enroute to Copper
Canyon that Teri survived with serious injuries. Her zest for life
and sharing quality moments with others may have been enhanced by
misfortunes she has experienced. Teri loves to laugh and smile.

Teresita’s Panadería y Bistro Serving offers dining in a 18th century
comfortable salon or out on the patio next to the fountain and rock
water wall. Teresita’s love dogs so don’t leave yours at home.
Free Wifi is available and all you can drink coffee. Enjoy!

©2017 Anders Tomlinson, all rights reserved.
All content by Anders Tomlinson unless noted.

Álamos 1900 – 1949

This page is under construction

The 1900’s started out with revolution and assassinations.
Álamos was in the middle of it all. The railroad came in 1908 and left in 1931.

portales in Álamos, Sonora, mexico plaza.  photo by anders tomlinson

The early 1900’s would be troubled times in the Plaza.

The Sud Pacifico de Mexico plans to extend its rail line south of Guaymas.

1905 – 06
The Richardson Construction Company invest in 650,000 acres south of the ¥aqui river for agricultural and irrigation development.

1905 -06
John Hays Hammond, associated with the Richardson Company and Boer war hero, is given permission from President Dias dictatorial government for developing and reopening Aduana mines in the Álamos District. He operates the Promontorio and Minas Nuevas mines. He built a smelter near Navajoa and invested heavily in mining equipment. The wealthy have reached a peak of prosperity.

Worker unrest escalates with a strike at the consolidated Copper mines at Cananea.

May, railroad reaches Navajoa.

Railroad from Navajoa reaches Álamos.

Area population estimates included Álamos 3,000 plus, Aduana 1,000 plus, Navajoa 1,000 plus, Promontorios 1,000, Minas Nuevas 1,000 and Camoa 1,000.

Humboldt noted in his records that he “passed a train of over one thousand mules loaded with bars of silver from the Aduana mines on their way to the City of Mexico.”

Report on the Alamos – Promonitos District mines in the Mining and Scientific Press.

One of the Aduana mines reaches a depth of 1500 feet.

January, Francisco Madero,leader of the Reform Movement, arrives in Álamos. Benjamin Hill is a leader in the Reform Movement. The Aduana mines shut down because of the Madero revolution. The rise in quick silvers prices, used in the reduction process, also made mining unprofitable. Álamos Perfecto Francisco A. Salido denied Madero the ability to speak in a public area. Don Miquel Urres invites Madero into his home to meet with powerful Álamos residents.

Minas Nuevas mines are taken over by Amos J. Yaeger. Later, he would shut the mine down and sell mine machinery and smelter for scrap.

Northern and central towns are under attack by Maderistas. Benjamin Hill captures Navajoa. He begins to move on Álamos but is ordered to stop and repair telegraph and railway lines damaged in battle.

November, Madero becomes Mexico’s president.

Early, Pascual Orozco, in Chihuahua turns against Madero, is former ally. Soon Orozco, and an army of 1400 soldiers, crosses into Sonora.

August 21, an Orozquistas column reaches Álamos which is defended by 650 federal and national guard troops. Álamos defenders attacked the Orozquistas outside of town at La Aurora.

August 22, 10 a.m., the Orozquistas retreat from La Aurora. Fighting continues through the day and the Orozquistas leave supplies and over 100 dead men on the ground. The Orozquistas had stopped earlier at Hacienda de Cedros and Rancho de la Uvalama where they had indulged in aguardiente – tequila?, which they had taken with them as they approached Álamos.

President Madero is assassinated. General Victoriano Huerta becomes President. Sonora revolts against Huerta led by Alvaro Obregon, Plutarco Elias Calles, Adolfo de la Huerta and Venustiano Carranza. All four of these men, three from Sonora and Carranza from Coahuila, would become Mexican presidents. Álamos sides with Huerta. Sonora, Chihuahua and Coahuila states take up arms against Huerta.

April, Benjamin Hill occupies Álamos as the Huertistas surrender. He takes money from wealthy Álamos citizens and captured Huertistas to support his troops in Sinaloa and repair damaged rail lines.
he forced the poor to take down the sandbag barricades in Álamos and return the sand to the surrounding arroyos.

August, Carranza becomes head of government.

General Pancho Villa, and thousands of his troops, fought against Carranza in southern Mexico. Carranza’s troops won several battles and Villa headed north into Sonora. Villa forces lived off the land and terrorized all who they came across. Mines and ranchos were abandoned.

April 8, Maria de los Angeles Felix Guerrean, the famous actress, was born in Álamos. These were turbulent times for the region. Yaquis and Mayos were joining forces with Obregon and Villa’s armies. Venustiano Carranza became the third Mexican President in two years.

1914 – 15
Wars between Sonoran Governor Maytorena and his military leaders. Well armed and trained Yaquis and Mayos Indians join Obregon and Villa’s armies who sided with Maytorena.

Pancho Villa is entrenched in southern Sonora.

May 12, 500 Pancho Villaistas attack Álamos. Major Felix Mendoza has 30 troops and 50 citizens to defend Álamos against Villa’s troops. The five hour battle is waged in the plaza and on Loma de Guadalupe. 25% of Mendoza’s troops are dead or wounded. He orders the survivors to surrender and he himself commits suicide.

April, General Angel Flores’ Expeditionary Force of Sinaloa regains Álamos in a month.

September, the Constitutionalists control southern Sonora. Villa returns to Chihuahua.

Indian uprisings create ghost towns in Sonora. Álamos old families remain in ancestral homes.

The United States sends the American Punitive Expedition into Mexico after Pancho Villa and his troops had entered New Mexico.

Yaguis and Mayos felt they had not be given benefits that had been promised them go on the rampage throughout Sonora. Farmers, ranchers, towns and villages were attacked. Baroyeca becomes a ghost town.

September, Obregon becomes Mexico’s president. Recovery from wars begins. Renegade soldiers, bandits, Yaquis and Mayos continue raiding, plundering and killings.

1920 – 30’s
Sonora re-establishes schools, roads and farming.
Life in Álamos stabilizes. It is now a small mexican town forgotten by many and home to old families. Mansions, neglected by war and neglect, turn to ruins. But Álamos does not become a ghost town.

Maria de los Angeles Felix Guerrean’s family lived in Álamos until they left for Guadalajara. Soon Maria Felix’s beauty would be nationally recognized.

Last Yaqui uprising ends in total defeat for the Yaquis, they have lived in peace with the “Yoris” since then.

One train a week from Navajoa to Álamos.

Planning begins on the Mexican link of the International Highway.
Some thought the highway may follow the old El Camino Real through Álamos to El Fuerte and south. Eventually it is routed through Navajoa and south bypassing Álamos, which is to the east.

Railroad from Navajoa to Álamos disbanded. Traffic to Álamos was on an old narrow dirt road

amos j. yaeger grave in minas nuevas, sonora mexico.  photo by anders tomlinson

Amos J. Yaeger grave in Minas Nuevas.

Amos J. Yaeger dies at the age of 59.

Álamos city has an estimated population of 1,000.

500,000 hectares of public lands, “ejidos” are allotted to the Yaquis.

The Álamos region had a population of 5,369 men and 4,848 women older than six years.

ruin of the house where actress maria felix was born in 1914.  alamos, sonora, mexico.  photo by anders tomlinson

Ruins, like this birhtplace of Maria Felix, are bought and sold.

William Levant Alcorn, a Pennsylvania dairy farmer, arrives in Álamos and bought the Almada mansion on Plaza de Armas and restored it as the Hotel Los Portales. Alcorn helped publicize Álamos and had a successful real estate business buying and selling ruins and property.

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♦ Other Álamos, Sonora Mexico timelines:

1500 – 1599 timeline

1600 – 1699 timeline

1800 – 1849 timeline

1850 – 1899 timeline

1900 – 1949 timeline

Geologic timeline

History videos

Álamos population history

La Aduana mining 1910

Conquistadors, silver and gold

Álamos and Horses

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©2015 Anders Tomlinson, all rights reserved.

Alamos Short History

Back in the Old West When There Was No Old West

The Chuc

Looking west, explorer Coronado was struck by this mountain and landscape.

Tucked away in a picturesque valley in the foothills of the Sierra Madre is an enchanted Shangri-La that sings of other eras. Indians called this region Calimaya long before Spanish Explorer Vasquez de Coronado noted in 1540, ” here is something special…

The Spaniards called this land Real de los Frailes because of some tall white rocks resembling hooded monks overlooking a small Indian village shaded by cottonwoods.

These towering rocks speak loudly. They call for, and command, your attention.

In 1683, 143 years after Coronado, two abundant veins of silver were discovered seven miles to the west of present day Alamos. The mines of Aduana and Minas Nuevas, in a zone 4.5 by 1.5 miles, produced an estimated $100,000,000 in 1910 dollars.

Aduana is now a sleepy little village amid mine ruins.

Soon, Alamos was the richest and most important city on the El Camino Real. Juan de Anza arrived and departed Alamos sometime in the spring of 1775 with local families and freshly mined silver to settle San Francisco. Alamos money and citizens were also vital for expeditions that settled Monterey, Santa Barbara and five years later, Los Angeles. Father Kino used the Royal treasury to finance a chain of missions in northern Sonora and southern Arizona. The Bishop and Governor resided in Alamos, as did the first high school, printing press and newspaper and important trading center.

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♦  A timeline of De Anza in 1775

January – de Anza, in Mexico City, begins to organize his expedition to to colonize San Francisco.

March – de Anza begins recruiting colonizers in Culiacan, Province of Sinaloa, Mexico.

April 5 – de Anza is recorded as being in Culiacan

March, April, May – de Anza continued recruiting in the villages of Sinaloa and El Fuerte in the Province of Sinaloa, and Álamos, in Sonora. 30 citizens from Álamos, more than any other community, had joined the expedition, now more tHan 250 soldiers and colonizers.

May 1 – de Anza is in El Fuerte.

May 13 – de Anza, Espinosa and six presidial soldiers meet up with Moraga between Álamos and Horcasitas.

June 22 – de Anza in San Miguel de Horcasitas

July 22 – September 13 – diary notes indicate de Anza was in San Miguel de Horcasitas, Terrenate, Cocóspera, Mission San Ignacio… During this period of time the Apaches were restless.

September 29 – de Anza’s expedition leaves Horcasitas, just north of Alamos. From Pedro Font’s diary notes.

October 16 – de Anza arrives in Tubac from Horcasitas in mid-and continues preparations there

October 23 – de Anza’s expedition left Tubac on with some 300 people and 1000 head of livestock. There were no wagons or carts. All supplies were loaded on pack mules every morning and unloaded every night. The expedition was headed to the SF Bay Area following reports of a great river flowing into the bay.
The goal was to establish a presido, mission and San Franciso settlement.

March – de Anza arrived in Monterey, California.

March 28 – Mexican Captain Juan Bautista de Anza, Lt. Jose Moraga, and Franciscan priest Pedro Font arrived at the tip of San Francisco. De Anza planted a cross at what is now Fort Point. They camped at Mountain Lake and searched inland for a more hospitable area and found a site they called Laguna de los Dolores or the Friday of Sorrows since the day was Friday before Palm Sunday.

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The plaza was the heartbeat of Alamos as it grew in power and prestige.

The lure of silver brought international miners from Europe and other continents. On the Sea of Cortez galleons from Asia, Phillipines and Europe called on the port of Huatabampo loaded with cargo, a week by burro from Alamos. They brought luxuries such as silk and satin and the world’s finest furniture. Opera Companies visited. China minted coins here. Merchants came from India and Japanese supervised a silk factory. The indigenous population included Mayos, Yaquis, and Tarahumaras. Hordes of miners and traders, who endured great hardships in their travels, overran Alamos.

As many as 30,000 people made Alamos their home during the peak of its glory in the 18th century. Here, new Spain was pomp and circumstance with a beautiful Church, grand haciendas built in the style of Andalusia, Spain, flower-filled patios, romantic serenades, elegant carriages, flourishing commerce, and mines that ranked amongst the most productive in the world.

The Past is Alive in the Structures and the Sparkle of an Eye.

For the past 300 years Alamos has been built and shaped by families of wealth and taste. Experienced builders and skilled craftsmen, through good times and bad, have gone about town building and restoring ruins. Today it is a National Colonial Monument, an ageless tribute to the men and women who entrusted their designs, possessions and dreams to the future.

The Plaza was the prize, conquer the Plaza and Alamos was yours.

The Sunday promenade in Plaza de Armas goes back to the 1680’s. In peaceful times families gathered here for conversation, worship and grand public celebrations. The church and prominent colonial mansions were built surrounding the plaza for protection against the Indians: Tarahumara, Yaquis, Mayos and Apaches. Later, the plaza afforded a prestigious address.

Looking down from the Church at a street sweeper on Calle Comercio.

The Alameda, the commercial center of Alamos, was laid out in 1769.

For Every Action There is An Equal and Opposite Reaction.

With prosperity came hardship. The poor could not afford the inflated prices of merchandise shipped by pack trains from Guadalajara and Mexico City, a hazardous trek that took four months. Indians were used as slaves or cheap labor. Sanitation and disease were a problem: in 1770 alone plague wiped out 6,000 people.

There are times when the Plaza is quiet and reflective and there are times when…

There were continual power struggles between Colonels, Governors, Admirals, Priests, Bishops, and an unending parade of Royal emissaries. The city was heavily taxed by the Crown and by those who controlled the local territory. Political instability raged, treaties and agreements were broken. Alamos had its ups and downs depending on the mood of the day, month and seasons.

Alamos endured two centuries of siege mentality and the prize was control of silver and politics. At one time or another the plaza was overrun by the Spanish, Mexican colonists, Federalists, Liberals, French, Apaches, Independents, Reformers, Pancho Villa, Renegade soldiers and bandits. Along with droughts, pestilence and floods Indians continued constant uprising. Apaches came south to plunder and the independent Tarahumara sought revenge for their forced slavery. By 1849 only 4,000 people remained in Alamos. The miners had left for California’s gold rush.

And Then They Were Gone.

Trade shifted from El Camino Real to coastline ports. Plazas, arches, ornate ironwork, hand carved wood, high ceilings and cobblestone streets fell upon hard times. Roofs caved in leaving two to five foot thick walls open to the sky. The once great patios filled with debris. Despite the wars, bad weather and impoverished neglect. old families stayed, as did some miners. Alamos continued on… the sun would rise another day in this land that remained in a forgotten age.

The streets of this National Colonial Monument echo history, here, one is never alone.

The Plaza is peaceful these days. Alamos streets are safe from intruders and invaders.
Town folks sleep well at night knowing tomorrow is another day, another song, another hug, another laugh, another challenge, another moment to be part of Alamos…

And Then Along Came A Man Named Levant.

Not until the 1950’s did a lone American, Levant Alcorn, come to the cobble stone streets, and see the potential for the future. He saw value in the plazas, arches, ornate iron-work, carved wood doors, high ceilings, five-foot thick walls and proximity to the United States International border.

Late in his life, a childlike Levant had a quick smile and a fading memory.

He began to acquire ruined mansions. Soon, he was selling property to independent Americans hoping to realize their dream standard of living. Restoration projects began and continue today. Now, Alamos has over 200 American families as part of its social fabric.

Roofs are always in need of repair. They are also another place to relax.

Each wall, every window and door is a story. Where did it come from, how and when did it get here? Was it made by an Alamos or imported craftsmen?

There is a prideful sense of ownership that comes with undertaking a restoration project that in reality will never end. And there is a humble realization that the casa is really owned by history and this is but a brief opportunity to be part of a continuum of gatekeepers and masters.

Restoration-maintenance is an industry, it is a way of life. Owners, maestros, workers
and house-help are a team that can last a lifetime.

Think of the coats of paint these columns have worn over the past 200 years.

An introduction to a Short History of Alamos, Sonora, Mexico.
“Here is something Special”, Spanish explorer Vasquez de Coronado noted in 1540 as he headed north, passing by tall white rocks on Alamos de Sierra. This is the opening chapter to “A Short History of Alamos” written, filmed and edited by Anders Tomlinson. Narrated by Bruce Miles. Soundtrack by SonicAtomics and Estudiantina de Alamos.

Alamos shares a strong maternal bond, steeped in history, with all the Southwest.
Juan Batista de Anza arrived and departed from Alamos in the spring of 1775 with silver, and local families, to settle “Monterey and the Californias”, including San francisco. Another expedition, five years later, left Alamos to settle Los Angeles.

The conclusion to a Short History of Alamos, Sonora, Mexico embraces the Sierra Madre.
Here, Bishop Reyes’ Cathedral in the Plaza, a three-tiered belfry, shines gold in morning light. Here, looking east, one’s imagination is stirred by the forbidding beauty of the Sierra Madre Occidentals. Together, they shape the Alamos experience.

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©2013 Anders Tomlinson, all rights reserved.